Handyman Services: the Best Way to Protect Your Biggest Investment

Room with furniture

Homeowners know just how expensive it can be to keep your house looking good inside and out. In fact, it can often seem like an unending task to keep your home maintained. It’s like magic: as the moment you repair one thing, something else needs your attention. It’s enough to pull your hair out in frustration, especially if you don’t even know where to start!

This is, of course, where handyman services come in. Yes, spending a few extra bucks on having a skilled and experienced Knoxville handyman to come to your house and get things back in working order might seem like a hassle, but it often beats doing it yourself. In the long run, relying on handyman services for regular maintenance can add years (and thousands of dollars in value) to your house Your home is perhaps the biggest investment you’ll ever make in your lifetime, after all — why shouldn’t you protect it?

What Kinds of Handyman Services We Offer

When we say “handyman services”, we don’t just mean one specific facet of home repair or maintenance. A good handyman knows how to do a little bit of everything, which means you can rest assured that we’ve got you covered on everything except the biggest, most complex jobs. And thanks to our connections in the home repair and renovation industry, we know the best contractors for you even if we can’t do it ourselves.

So what’s covered under handyman services? What isn’t! From cleaning leaves out of rain gutters, patching leaky roofs, fixing garage door openers, and landscaping or lawn irrigation to unclogging toilets, installing kitchen appliances, weatherizing windows, and home repairs, a good handyman can handle just about anything and everything thrown at him.

Let Us Save You Time, Money, and Effort

Handyman services are great for anyone looking to get their home maintenance and repair done the easy way. When it comes to jobs you don’t know how to do or ones that you don’t have the time or energy to undertake yourself, leaving it to the experts like us means your home repair jobs go off without a hitch. We’ll get the job done right the first time with no effort on your part.

Our services can often help you save money as well as sanity. do-it-yourself home maintenance can be really expensive, especially if you don’t have much experience in doing the kinds of things we do every day. This can lead to mistakes being made — and mistakes often cost a lot to fix. This is just one way that the price of a good handyman will often be much less than you would end up paying to have it done yourself!

Your Home Is Your Castle – Let Us Keep It That Way

We’re ready and willing to come out and take a look at your next home maintenance or repair project. Call us today to get an estimate for services and you’ll see just how we can keep your home looking like the castle it is!

How To Fix A Leaky Faucet

leaky faucet repair, faucet repair, handyman tennessee

Certain noises are almost universally recognized. Sounds like a person’s laughter, the boom of thunder, or a dog barking in the distance. Of these recognizable sounds, a leaking faucet is one homeowners dread hearing. Many restless nights have been caused by the constant dripping of a leaky faucet. When homeowners run into this problem, they often try to solve it themselves. Sometimes, it’s an easy fix like listed below; other times, you may need to call for backup. Try these tricks to fixing a leaky faucet. If your problem still isn’t solved, fill out our free estimate request and we’d love to help you out.

What You’ll Need:

  • Adjustable Pipe Wrench
  • Basin Wrench
  • Hex Wrench
  • Adjustable Pliers
  • Rag

There are single handle and double handle faucets. Single handle only has 1 control arm for both cold and hot. Double handle has a separate handle for cold and hot water sources. For the purpose of this article we’re going to assume you have a single handle faucet. 

Now, determine the source of the leak. If the faucet is leaking from the spout there is probably a damaged part inside the faucet itself. If the base is leaking it’s probably an o-ring or seal. Locate the water source hose under your sink and turn off the flow of water. Open your faucet handle to remove any remaining pressure in the lines. Place a rag over the drain hole to protect and prevent losing any parts. 

Remove the faucet handle using a hex wrench and remove the metal cap. If the faucet base is leaking, slide the spout off and replace the damaged o-rings underneath. If the faucet spout is leaking, remove the faucet handle, cap, and disassemble the internal parts (or cartridge). Lay the parts out in order and snap a picture with your phone so you don’t forget how to reassemble. While replacing that single broken part is an option, it’s better to replace the entire cartridge. Take your internal parts to the plumbing store and find the correct replacement assembly. 

Follow manufacturer suggestions for installation, making sure to use plumbers grease on any o-rings or seals. Once all the parts have been installed, open the faucet handle and slowly turn your water supply supply back on. Allow any air to bleed out of the lines and shut the faucet handle off. If your leak persists, it may be time to get some help. We specialize in helping homeowners repair leaky faucets. With years of experience in home repairs, you can trust that we’ll get the job done right, the first time.

Pros & Cons Of Wood Laminate Flooring

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There’s never a bad time to consider renovating your home. Many homeowners choose to renovate piece by piece over the course of time. When it comes to renovating your floors, wooden floors may seem like a great option. Wood floors look great, last for decades, and add a strong decorative touch to your home. The problem with wood floors is that they’re far more expensive than other flooring options. Because wood floors can be pricey, more and more homeowners are choosing to use wood laminate flooring instead. For information on what flooring is the right option for your project, check out our article on choosing the best flooring.

What Is Wood Laminate Flooring?

Let’s go over what exactly wood laminate flooring is made from. Comprised of multiple layers laminated together, this synthetic flooring usually has a bottom layer made from plastic and wood fibers. Then, a photographic applique of wood is applied, followed by a clear, protective layer. This technique allows for floors to have near photo-realism with a vast range of potential color, texture, and grain options.

Wood Laminate Flooring Pros

The biggest pro is price. Wood laminate is much cheaper than the real wood alternative. You can buy wood laminate for as little at $1.50 per square foot. Compare that to the $4 per square foot for real wood and that can quickly add up. Installation is also much more straightforward than real wood or carpet. Most laminate is designed with tongue and groove edges so laying and installing flooring is quick and efficient. Laminate is tough, durable, and will resist things like scratches better than hardwood.

Wood Laminate Flooring Cons

Because it is layered plastic and coating, laminate floors can not be refinished. If standing water is left untreated, laminate flooring will need to be replaced. Check the warranty of your laminate flooring to ensure it covers such incidences. Cheaper laminates won’t have such protections.

If you think you’re ready to start the remodeling process, or still have some questions about flooring, we’d love to talk with you. With years of flooring experience, we can help you complete any home project on time and on budget. Fill out our free work estimate to get started today!

Furniture Assembly Tips

knoxville furniture assembly

Just about every has bought a shelf, table, or chair from a big box store. This furniture usually come in flat boxes, contains vague instructions, and almost always missing parts. After years of assembling these random pieces of furniture, we’ve learned a thing or two on how to make assembly easier. In this article, we’ll go over some helpful tips for furniture assembly you can use on your next project.

Clean Your Workspace

Before starting any assembly, it’s important to clean and clear your working area. Having a large, open area to assemble furniture means you can spread out parts and not worry about hiding that tiny bag of screws that seems to always go missing.

Grab A Partner

Having someone to help you assemble the furniture can be very helpful, and sometimes even fun. One person can read directions while the other searches for the right part. When you work with someone else the assembly goes by quicker and often times better.

Unpack & Organize

With your workspace cleared, open the furniture box and begin separating contents. Group pieces together by visual similarity. Assembled furniture often comes with various screws, nuts, bolts, caps, and so forth. You can organize these small parts with sandwich bags or cups to keep them from scattering during assembly.

Read The Instructions

We all know someone who refuses to read directions for assembly. While their assembly projects might be completed with no issue, this approach can lead to serious problems when assembling a more complex piece of furniture. When you read the directions begin identifying the listed to familiarize yourself during actually assembly. 

Grab The Right Tools

If you’re buying a less complex piece of furniture, it will often come with the tools needed for assembly; usually a hex key (also called allen wrench). If you’re assembling something a little more complex, you might need a few extra tools to make the process easier. Some helpful tools to have are an adjustable wrench, phillips and flathead screwdriver, rubber mallet, a level, and tape measure.

Take Your Time

Remember that putting furniture together isn’t a race. When you rush through an assembly, something will probably be missed, causing problems with the final product. Be patient and double check your work to ensure the furniture is put together correctly the first time.

Call A Handyman

If you don’t have time to assemble furniture, or maybe you can’t quite finish a piece, calling a professional handyman could be the solution.

Smith Handyman Service has experience with different types of furniture and all the necessary tools to make assembly a breeze. We offer a full line of furniture assembly services. If you need a hand, we’ve got you covered. 

Fill out an estimate form today.

Paint Like A Pro: How To Paint Walls


You made it! You’ve purchased all the right tools for the job, picked out the perfect paint, fully prepared the room, and now it’s time to start painting. Don’t worry, your time and effort will pay off! Let’s begin with the primer.

Painting Primer Coat

For this article, we’re going to assume you’re not painting the ceiling. Grab your sash brush, the primer paint, an old rag, and let’s get started. Ensure the lid is on tightly and give the paint can a good shake. Carefully open the lid and set aside. If you’re using a paint bucket, fill it with a decent amount of primer. Depending on the height of your walls, a ladder may be necessary to paint near the ceiling.

Take the paintbrush handle in your hand like a big pencil. Don’t grab it like a hammer. Coat the first 2” of the bristles with primer, lightly dab the brush against the sides of your paint bucket to remove excess, and let’s start painting near the top corner of your selected wall. Think of your wall as a rectangle. We’re going to paint around the edge of the rectangle with the brush. This is called cutting in. Remember, take your time. The purpose of cutting in is to make painting the rest of your wall with a roller much easier.

To get paint into the corner without making a mess, try approaching the wall holding your brush at a 45° angle. Start your stroke about 3” from the corner and apply light pressure. As your brush works its way into the corner, rotate your wrist towards the downward wall. With some practice, this should allow you to work your paint brush into the corner without smudging or beading up too much paint.

Once you cut in the corner, paint a 2-4” wide cut in line along the top of your wall. Use your rag to clean up any accidents. If you’ve got baseboard, be careful not to have too much paint on your brush when cutting in. Excess paint tends to bead up on a brush and leak onto baseboard. Finish the floor line then go back to the top corner and paint a 2-4” wide cut in line down the side edge of your wall. Repeat for other side edge. Once the edges of your wall are painted, cut in along the edge of any windows or doors on the wall.

Grab your roller and roller cover. Fill your paint tray with primer, but not enough to cover the lines used to remove excess paint. Don’t dunk the roller cover in primer. Roll the edge of the roller into the paint. Try to keep paint outside of the internal rolling mechanism. Take your coated roller and paint a large “W” shape on a 2-3 foot wide section of your wall. Go back over the gaps you left by rolling straight up and down on the wall. Go over this section a few times and get your roller up and into the cut in lines. This method will allow you to evenly coat a section of the wall without having to go back to the paint tray multiple times. Once you’ve completed the first section of your wall, move on to the next 2-3 foot wide “W” shape. Be sure to paint about 4-6” of overlap on the previous sections of your wall. This will help ensure paint dries evenly and doesn’t show much streaking.

If you’re painting with a partner, start with both of you cutting in. Split the wall down the middle and each take one half. Once you finish cutting in the wall, one person starts rolling while the second person begins cutting in the second wall. Find a groove and you’ll have this project done in no time!

Once you’ve painted the primer it will need a few hours to dry and set up. Depending on your location, or time of year, this drying could take a full day before it’s ready for a finish coat. While you’re waiting for paint to dry, clean out your brush and roller to prepare for the finish coat. Depending on what state you’re in, you may need to comply with certain laws when cleaning equipment. Look up what your state’s laws are on paint clean up before starting.

Painting Finish Coat

Once your primer coat has fully dried you’re ready for finish. This coat requires more focus and attention to detail. You’re going to follow the same painting method for primer, but this time you’ll want to put more attention towards cutting in. Be sure all cut in lines are well covered and passed over several times to smooth them out. This will help eliminate streaking along the edges of the wall. Once you start covering a wall with finish you’ll want to complete the entire wall. If you stop halfway through or run out of paint you may have to repaint later on.

If you’re painting with a darker finish, you may need to use 2, or even 3 coats to completely cover your walls. Depending on the walls previous color and how well you applied the primer, drywall can be tough to cover or porous; requiring more paint. Keep a rag handy in case you make a mistake or drip some paint. Even the pros frequently mess up.

Once you’re satisfied with the finish coat, allow it to dry for a few hours. You can clean out your roller, but leave your paint brush bristles partially submerged in finish. You’ll need it for touch up later. Once the paint is dry to the touch, begin to remove tape. Use caution, removing tape quickly can pull fresh paint off the wall, leaving marks for touch up.

Touch Up Paint

Before reinstalling outlet covers and removing drop cloths take your brush around the room and inspect the wall for imperfections or light paint coverage. If you come across an area on the wall that needs to be touched up, use your finish to cover it. Cover the light spot, then use the bristles of your brush to feather out the paint around the affected area. This helps blend the touch up with paint already applied. Once you’ve touched up the paint allow walls to dry at least 4 hours. Once paint is dry to the touch you can remove additional tarps or coverings and reinstall outlet covers.

Remember to clean up your tools and put them away properly. You can reuse a decent paint brush for years, as long as you take care of it. With your equipment clean and room back in order, you’ve successfully painted like a pro. Now it’s time to enjoy the fruits of your labor and look forward to the next project!

If you’ve enjoyed this series please let me know. And, if you’ve read the series and want some help with your next painting project, I would love the opportunity to help out. Fill out my job estimate form to get started!

Paint Like A Pro: Preparing To Paint

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Part 1 of our series shared what tools can help make painting easier, Part 2 of the series covered how to pick the best paint for your project, and now in Part 3 we will be discussing how to prepare walls for painting.

When most people think of painting a room, they probably skip over most, if not all, of the preparation process. Properly preparing a surface to be painted is just as important as the painting itself. When a surface is prepped the paint goes on better and lasts much longer.

For this article we’ll be prepping an interior wall for painting, but the same ideas can apply to other surfaces. Here are some steps to consider when preparing a wall for paint:

Remove Furniture & Wall Decorations

Having multiple pieces of furniture in a room can make painting a pain. If it’s an option, remove any furniture from the room to give you plenty of space to work in. If you’ve got pictures or other things hanging from the wall, now is the time to remove them. If you’d like to rehang items after painting, don’t fill in those holes with putty (more on that later).

Clean The Walls

Depending on how long it’s been since the last paint job, your walls could be covered with a fair amount of dirt and debris. This is particularly true in the kitchen, where food debris can often be found on the walls. Take this time to scrape off dirt, gunk, and other build up before moving on to the next step. Use a multi-tool or putty knife to clear debris build-up off the walls. You can clean your dirty walls with a solution of 1 tablespoon laundry detergent to every 1 gallon of water. Lightly scrub the walls with a sponge or soft bristle brush.

Caulking Seals & Joints

If you’re not going to paint your window trim, baseboard, or crown moulding, you can skip to the next section. If you are going to paint those pieces, consider caulking any cracks or openings around the trim. Depending on what you’re sealing, you’ll want to use a latex or silicone based caulking. For most interior walls white latex caulking is fairly standard. If you’re caulking a bathtub, sink, or other surface that may be exposed to water, you might consider a silicone based sealant.

Grab your caulking gun and insert the caulking tube. Using a sharp knife, cut at a 45 degree angle about ¼” from the tip of your tube. Having a diagonal tip will allow you to easily get caulking into tighter, smaller spaces. Keep a wet rag handy because this can get messy. Find spots that need to be sealed and apply a thin bead of caulking. Gently run your finger over the caulking line to smooth the surface and fill in gaps. Wipe off any excess and clean your hand with the rag before continuing. Silicon is a little different could require some solvent to remove from your hands. Let the caulking set up and dry for a least a few hours before attempting to paint. While your sealant is drying, move on to the next steps.

Remove Outlet Covers

This step making painting with a roller much easier. Grab a Phillips or Flathead screwdriver and remove any outlet covers from the walls you’ll be painting. If the outlet covers are plastic and dirty put them in a small bucket of water with some soap. Let them soak while you prep the wall.

Fill Holes with Putty or Spackling

If your wall isn’t textured or paneled, a fresh coat of paint can really make small imperfections on the wall stand out. Small holes from pictures, dings, and dents over the years can be filled with painter’s putty or spackling. I prefer to use painter’s putty because it is decently easy to work with and can be painted over. Spackling will typically be easier to mold to the hole or crack in the wall, but can be difficult to cover with paint.

Take about a golf ball size piece of painter’s putty and begin to work it in your hand; making it more pliable. Applying slight pressure, run the putty ball over small holes in the wall. Try to over fill the hole just a little bit. As the putty sets up and dries, it will shrink down. You can remove any excess putty with a multi-tool or putty knife. Allow the putty to set up and dry for at least a few hours before painting.

Sanding The Wall

Sanding your wall can remove minor imperfections left behind from putty or wall debris. I prefer to use this sanding sponge because it provides decent grip and doesn’t tear away at the wall like rougher pads. Find areas that need to be sanded, apply light pressure to the sponge and work in a small, circular motion. Take a dry rag and wipe away any dust left behind from sanding.

Vacuuming & Dusting

Now that things are sealed and sanded, there shouldn’t be much more debris created before painting. Take a soft bristle broom or rag and dust off your walls. This dust can making covering the wall with fresh paint difficult. Knock off excess dust and grab a shop-vac. If you don’t have a shop-vac you can use a trusty broom and dust pan. The goal is create a relatively clean, dirt free environment before painting.  


There’s no other way to spin it: taping takes time but is a worthwhile investment. With proper care given to taping, cutting in and painting become much easier. Painter’s tape helps protect other walls or surfaces from stray paint, and make clean-up a breeze. When I’m taping off trim or ceilings I like to use this painter’s tape. It offers enough adhesion to stick to most surfaces, but won’t damage underlying paint when removed.

If you’re taping a ceiling pull about 18” of tape off the roll. Press the end of your tape into a ceiling corner with a little overlap. Line the edge of your tape along the ceiling and wall joint then press the tape firmly against the ceiling to create a seal. Slide your fingers down the line of tape. Leaving your fingers pressed against the tape, pull more tape off the roll and continue down the ceiling. You can tape about 3-5 feet before you need to move your ladder. Take an X-Acto knife or other utility blade and trim the excess off the start of your tape in the first corner.

Tarps & Drop Cloth

This should be the last step before you begin painting. You’ve cleaned, repaired, and prepared your walls for paint, now it’s time to protect floors and remaining furniture. If you’re painting over tile or wood, stray paint particles will typically clean off with relative ease. If you’re painting over carpet, more care needs to be taken. You can buy plastic tarps to cover furniture left in the room, or simply use old bed sheets. For protecting the floor I suggest getting a drop cloth that will cover the length of most rooms. This will allow you to paint the majority of a wall without having to move your drop cloth multiple times. Remember that when you paint a wall tiny droplets of paint will be flying off your brush and roller. Using tarps will protect the floors underneath and make clean-up easier.

If you’ve done all these steps you should be ready to paint like a pro! In the final installment of our series we’ll be discussing how to cut in with a brush and use a roller. If you want something painted, but painting isn’t something you want to try, I would love the opportunity to help. Fill out my job estimate form to get started.

Painting Like A Pro: Choosing The Right Paint

choosing the right paint

In the last part of this series, we covered what tools you’ll need to help you paint like the pros. Now that you have the right tools, it’s time to figure out what paint to use for your renovation project. Let’s talk about what you’re painting. Is it indoors or outdoors? Is the surface smooth or rough? Do you want the finished product to look glossy or matte? All these questions, and more, need to be answered to get the best results.

In this article I’ll go over the different kinds of paint you can use for various projects. Knowing what kind of paint you need can save money and frustration when going to purchase. Once you have a color in mind, we’ll begin working through the next steps.



Once you choose a paint color, you’ll need to decide what finish you’d like the final product to have. Do you want a flatter, satin finish; or a more shiny, glossy finish? Satin, or matte, finish provides little to no shine, and offers less stain resistance. Glossy finish carries a high shine and is often times more washable. Whatever finish you decide on, make sure to purchase a color sample kit for testing (more on that later).


To ensure your final color covers completely and looks great, paint a primer coat first. Primer brings old walls back to a neutral color, seals up tiny holes in drywall, and helps final coat last even longer. Primers don’t have to be top-of-the-line to get great results. Take your time when rolling out walls and some generic primer should do the trick. Most gallons of primer will cover approximately 400 square feet, or a 12×12 room with 8’ ceilings. Try out this primer from Sherwin Williams:

Remember that primers can be tinted to closely resemble final color. This comes in handy when making a large color transition like dark blue to fiery red; and can also save you from having to apply multiple coats.


For most interior walls, people prefer high-quality, durable paint. They’re willing to pay a bit more to ensure paint will look better and last longer. While oil-based paints are more durable, many people choose latex paint because it tends to dry quickly and hold color. Latex paints are easier to apply and clean up can be done with water.

To paint interior garage walls, I prefer to use this paint because it’s cheaper and still provides a decent final look:

For painting interior walls, I prefer to use a better quality paint. For a better paint that’s still affordable I choose this:

If you want to go a step up in quality from the ProMar 200, you’ll need to drop a little more money. Purchasing a higher quality product can make application easier and paint last longer. Sherwin Williams offers their SuperPaint, which is touted as a Primer and final coat in one. While this is a novel idea, painting a primer layer first is always good consideration. Here’s the SuperPaint I would recommend:

Alternatively, Benjamin Moore offers a large line of interior paints that are high quality, but also higher price. Weigh the value of your project vs. the cost of supplies. If you’re flipping a house to sell quickly, you may not want to drop a lot of money on paint. But, if you’re creating your dream home it may be worth spending extra.


Because exterior walls are exposed to all sorts of weather, wear, and tear, they need to be more durable than interior paints. When choosing an exterior paint type, consider the material being painted. If it’s wooden siding the wood might need to be sealed before applying final coat. If you’re painting vinyl siding it requires a 100% acrylic.

For wooden siding, I like using a wood sealer, then coating with stain or final alternative color coat. When applying stain I like to use:

For vinyl siding I suggest using a 100% acrylic paint that is formulated specifically for outdoor use. This product is what I prefer to use:

Helpful Tips

  • Once you choose a color and finish consider getting a sample test kit to try at home. This can help you save time and money if the color you choose doesn’t quite fit.
  • Talk to paint store about setting up an account. Depending on how much you plan on painting, some stores may let you set up an account as a contractor, potentially saving you money in supplies.
  • Don’t be cheap. This doesn’t mean you have to buy expensive paint, but don’t try and stretch the paint you have. Running out of paint halfway down a wall means repainting the entire thing later. Plan correctly, buy primer, and get enough final coat to cover everything at least once.

That’s it for this installment of the Paint Like A Pro series. If you’ve picked out the paint but don’t have the time to paint it yourself, I’d love the opportunity to help you. Fill out my work estimate form to get started on your painting project.

Painting Like A Pro: Getting The Right Tools

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Everyone has that family member who can, “Paint like a pro!” And it’s usually that same family member who ends up ruining the bathroom walls and somehow painting the dog.

Unfortunately, you can’t learn how to paint like a pro from reading a blog or watching a video. But, with a little practice, the right tools, and a few mistakes along the way, you can get pretty close. In this post, I will guide you through buying the right equipment.

Let’s talk about buying  the right tools. If you’re a weekend warrior, you probably aren’t going to break the bank buying an expensive spraying machine or a 7-piece painting suit. But, if you plan on painting more than 1 room over time, purchasing decent tools could save you time, money, and frustration in the future.


Paint Brushes

Depending on what you’re painting, a decent brush will cost around $10-$20. If that seems like a lot, remember you’re going to clean it and re-use it later. If you’re applying oil based paint, stains, or cutting in, I would recommend:

This is a versatile brush that allows users to paint on multiple surfaces, indoors and outdoors. The sash edge and 2” width gives inexperienced painters a little help with reaching those tight corners. Alternatively, at Lowe’s you can get:

If you’re applying latex based paints on bigger walls, I would recommend:

This brush is great for holding a lot of paint but still leaves a smooth finish. Alternatively, Lowe’s offers:

Paint Rollers

If you’re painting more than a very small room, you’ll probably want to consider using a roller. Rollers hold a lot of paint and cover a large surface area quickly. Having a good roller frame helps deliver paint to surface quickly and evenly. Let’s look at what you’ll need to get started:

Your roller frame shouldn’t be too expensive. Usually between $8-12. Don’t waste your money on fancy frames that claim to hold more paint or “save you time”. This roller frame will work just fine:

This Wooster frame is what I personally use and love it. It’s cheap, smooth, and easy to clean. At only $8, it won’t break your budget; and when taken care of lasts for years. Alternatively at Lowe’s you can get this:

Now you need a roller cover (or “nap” as they’re sometimes called). If you’re working with rough textured walls, you’ll need a longer cover. Most mainstream covers are made from polyester blends but will still work well. For painting smooth to semi-smooth walls use this roller cover:

This cover will hold quite a bit of paint, but won’t be too messy. If you’re shopping at Lowe’s you can get:

If you’re painting exterior walls, or the walls have heavy texture, you might need a longer roller cover. A 1/2in to 3/4in cover will hold a lot more paint, and also reach those areas in between texture or grooves. For painting semi-rough to rough walls, use this:

Alternatively, if you’re shopping at Lowe’s you can get this:

Helpful Things To Have

You can paint an entire house with the tools listed above. But, if you’re not used to it, that process will be difficult and tedious. So here are some things I recommend getting to make your painting experience much better:

That should just about do it for tools. With this equipment you’re fully prepared to paint any surface thrown at you. Click here for part 2 of 4: Choosing Your Paint. If you want something painted, but painting isn’t something you want to try, I would love the opportunity to help. Fill out my job estimate form to get started.

How To Fix A Sagging Door

fix a sagging door

As seasons change and homes age, there is settling that occurs. This is typical, and doesn’t often cause major problems. Creaking joints, slight shifting in floorboards, or cracks in the drywall. During the course of your home settling, door jamb can shift, creating a sagging door. This can cause improper latch alignment, or parts of the door to snag on the frame. When settling occurs, opening and closing your door becomes difficult or even impossible.

I’ve experienced this numerous times and fixing the problem can prove to be challenging; but, here are a few things you can try yourself before calling a professional.Tighten loose screws.

Tighten Loose Screws

It may sound silly, but this can definitely impact how your door sits in the jamb. If you have a few screws that aren’t completely tight, the door hinge could easily sag, causing the door to catch on the door frame. Ensuring all your door hinge screws are tight will eliminate this possibility and allow you to try the next step if your door still won’t function correctly.

Replace Shorter Screws

If the screws of your door hinges seem loose or like they’re not getting enough bite into the door frame, you replace the stand 1” screws with something a bit more substantial. Using a 2” or even 3” screw could help secure your door to a stud behind the door jam and fix the issue.

Fill In Loose Screw Holes

If changing out your screws isn’t an option, you can try filling in the loose screw holes. If your screw has partially stripped out the hole, or isn’t getting enough bite, you can try filling the hole to make a tighter fit. Use wood glue and toothpicks to fill the screw hole, allowing you to get more friction with the door screw.

Use A Hinge Shim

If your door is uneven adjusting door hinges might make a difference. When a hinge needs to be extended from the wall instead of drawn in, using a hinge shim could be an option. Trace your door hinge over a piece of thin cardboard and cut out the shape to use as a shim in your door jamb. Be careful because too much of a shim can make the problem worse.

Plane The Door

If you’ve tried all the previous options, planing the door could be something to consider. Planing the end of your door will make fitting inside the jamb easier. However, this can cause problems with modern, manufactured doors because they are hollow and often flimsy. Planing these doors could mean doing more damage than intended.

If these options didn’t work, or aren’t possible, it may be time to contact a professional. I’ve spent years repairing problems just like this, and would love the opportunity to help you out. With my experience and expertise, fixing your door won’t be a problem. Contact me to find out how I can serve you today.

How To Hang Multiple Pictures Evenly

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Have you ever been in a friend’s house and noticed something a little off with the photos hanging on their wall? No, not their weird looking uncle in the family picture. I’m talking about their picture frames being off balance. No matter what you do to ignore it, once you see the crooked frame, it distracts from all the other decorating efforts. Hanging multiple photos or decorations in a row has been a popular trend for years, so making sure your decorations are lined up correctly can really make them pop.

If you want to hang multiple picture frames in a row, you can follow these steps to make the process a bit easier:

  • Make sure to take your time deciding where the first frame will go. Ensuring the first picture is placed exactly where you want it helps when hanging the rest of your frames.
  • Pictures look best at eye level. For most, this is around 5’8” off the ground. Although height preferences vary from person to person, picking a starting point for your picture height will help when hanging multiple frames. Measure from the floor up so you remain accurate with other measurements. This also applies when staggering pictures at varying heights. Use floor measurement for reference.
  • If you’re hanging frames from wire, the length of wire being used will determine how much height adjustment needs to be made for frames to line up. Don’t forget to calculate additional height wires add to the picture frames.
  • After you’ve picked the desired frame height, mark a spot on the wall using some tape or a pencil. Tape won’t scratch up your wall or potentially leave a mark, but most pencil markings can be erased.
  • Once the first picture has been correctly hung, measure and mark on the wall where you want the remaining frames to be. Don’t forget to measure horizontal distance from frame to frame so the pictures are evenly spaced. Each case will be unique because of surrounding furniture or lighting.

Depending on what is below your pictures, it can be difficult to determine how high your frames need to be hung. Don’t fret, just remember to take your time with the first picture and determine where you want to go from there. If you like how the first picture looks the rest will be much easier. Take into consideration how your frames will look above a couch, next to a window, or beside a lamp. Along with your personal preference, frame surroundings determine what will look the best on your wall.

If you’ve tried to hang up pictures evenly but can’t get it quite right, fill out a work estimate form and I’d be glad to help you with that problem.